Jewish Community News

News: September 2008

Ernie’s Corner: wine and modern Rosh Hashanah meals
By Ernie Weir
Hagafen Cellars
 
    We all know that Jewish holidays are about food, but because modern Rosh Hashanah meals involve many sweet elements and off-the-beaten path components, finding the right wines to pair can be a challenge if not downright difficult for many people.  Here is a quick guide to help you as you get ready for your holiday planning:
   Dates, kumquats, pomegranates, and kiwi fruit are often used, not as dessert but as part of appetizers or main courses, which makes the wine selection a bit tricky.  Go with a slightly sweet—generally listed as “off-dry”—Riesling to bring out the flavors of the fruits without overwhelming them with sweetness. 
   Vegetables can provide hurdles for matching with wine, too.  Carrots and beets are often used because of their hints of sweetness, yet as with the fruits above, a sweet wine doesn’t work well because these are vegetables, not desserts.  Try a Chardonnay from the whites and a Merlot or Pinot Noir from the reds; these three varietals will work with the sweetness rather than creating an awkward combination.
     Onions and leeks need wines that augment their “vegetableness”; go with Sauvignon Blanc or Merlot.  Lastly, green beans call for unoaked Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Banc—only those two varietals, made in steel tanks, can match the grassiness of the beans.  Don’t even think of something else: you will not like the mix!
    Fish is one of the two proteins most often seen on modern tables, and the way to pair them depends on the type of each you are going to enjoy.  Fatty red or pink fishes, like salmon or tuna, need a wine to cut against the richness, so unoaked Chardonnays or Sauvignon Blancs are perfect; for a red, go with Pinot Noir, especially for salmon—there is no greater match.  White fish tends to be leaner, so oaked or reserve Chardonnays are great for a pairing that helps to flesh out the flavor of the fish. 
    Lamb is the other very common protein, and the best matches help to accentuate the earthy gaminess of the meat.  Best combinations will be Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and red blends—each will bring out the flavors of the lamb and provide a hint of fruity sweetness.